Richard Ammon. Historic Morelia This is an unexpected story from an unexpected place. I had never heard of Morelia Mexico before I arrived to visit a longtime friend who bought a house just outside the historic city center. On my first day he guided me into the heart of the city of about 2 million and immediately my heart was taken with the soul of this weathered old place.
The city seems to emerge from the earth; dust-colored cantera stone has been shaped into churches capped with old bronze-bell towers. Arcaded markets line the parks and squares.
Former villas and mansions front the streets with balconied windows trimmed with carved sandstone casings. Inside the many courtyards are antique bazaars, boutique clothing stores, hardware stores, art galleries, restaurants, cafes, gift shops.
Over the centuries many churches were built by the Roman Catholic missionaries and bishops who ran their dioceses like feudal lords. That is, until the revolution at the turn of the 20th century when the Mexican government confiscated all church properties. Since then, many of these iglesias have been turned into municipal buildings such as art galleries, offices and libraries photo left although some of the magnificent structures still remain churches in this very catholic country.
One of the most impressive conversions is the municipal library housed in a former Jesuit monastery photo left. With wooden bookcases thick with new and ancient volumes rising three levels toward the high arched ceiling of the nave, large glass windows at either end and heavy oak reading tables spread across the floor, the richly studious ambiance is equal to any library at Oxford or Cambridge.
