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Down to my right, the waters of Loch Swannay shine in the sunlight. All is calm there. Curtains of sea mist rise and fall over each scene before me.
I have grandstand views of them all from my perch between loch and sea in a clump of purple heather high on Costa Hill. It was officially inaugurated in , but has since been developed and extended.
Later on, his remains were returned to mainland Orkney — the St Magnus Way follows the mile route through which they are believed to have travelled. You can walk as little or as much of it as you want, guided by the St Magnus Way smartphone app downloadable from stmagnusway.
This trail is saturated in history. You had to watch yourself on a night out with the Vikings: their drinking sessions were strenuous and imbibing less than your companions could be dangerous. The small exhibition centre nearby has all the satisfyingly gory details. Some of St Magnus Way can be hard going — before ascending Costa Hill I had to scramble over boulders on the beach at Eynhallow Sound, shadowed offshore all the while by a posse of inquisitive seals.